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CUISINE


Introduction

Antalya is a city in the Mediterrenean Region which is famous for its historical and natural riches. In May and June, the city is filled with the scent of a natural perfume bestowed on by the flora. The city is an important tourist center. On the same day one can have the opportunity to participate in winter and summer sports. As it is in all the places in the world, Antalya cuisine is determined by the regional products.

The crops mostly grown are citrus, bananas, sesame, peanuts, soy beans tomatoes, cucumbers, green beans, zucchini, and egg plants. There are also olive trees in Antalya. Due to hot climate, vegetables and fruits are dominant in Antalya cuisine.

This research on Antalya cuisine was accomplished in 1982 by interviewing ten women over the age of fifty. The purpose of this study was to record all the food customs, traditions and the food eaten in ceremonies that are about to disappear. Although most of the following findings are being utilized, some of them are not used because of the changes in the habits of people, technological improvements and other related effects.

Meal Times in Antalya

As it was in the old times, people have three meals a day.

Traditionally, in the summer and in the winter filled yufka1 bread rolled up, soups, vegetables and fruits are eaten in the mornings, in the summer and in the winter. Even though soup is still eaten, people also have cheese, olives, butter, and jam, and drink tea for breakfast.

People have a light lunch prepared using the leftovers from dinner the night before. Since men usually come home in the evening, the most delicious dishes are prepared for dinner. Like the other places in Anatolia, Antalya has a meal called "yat geber ekmegi"2. At this meal before going to bed fruit is usually eaten in summer, and nuts are eaten in winter.

1 Yufka is thinly rolled and baked bread on a metal sac (similar to Chinese wok)

2 Since it is not a meal time, they call it "eat, sleep and die bread". Because they are already full, it has a humorous connatation.

Foods for Special Transitional Periods

In Antalya, traditional applications related to food in the period from birth to death, the most common is surely tarhana soup and the warm butter added palize. They are also the first foods which are given to a woman who has just delivered a baby and water sweetened with sugar is also given to the newborn. The neighbours usually prepare and bring palize1 and helva2 in order to help to increase the milk production of the mother.

In Antalya, they used to hold a party "invitation to salt" for the midwife, for the family members and close friends on the seventh day after the baby's birth. On this occasion, the midwife used to rub the baby's body even the mouth with sugar, honey and salt mixture in order to keep the baby smell nice. At this ceremony, balava, puff pasties and the most delicious dishes were prepared.

When the baby had his/her first tooth, they used to have a ceremony called "dis irgiti". In this ceremony wheat, navy beans, chickpeas were cooked and served with some nuts.

There would be a big celebration and a party when a young boy was circumcised. It was traditional to serve the same kinds of food at the circumcision and as at the wedding.

When the groom's family went to ask for the bride's hand in marriage and at the engagement ceremony, they used to serve sherbet (a kind of sweet drink) with almonds. For the religious wedding ceremonies which were held at home, coffee, Turkish delight and food were served.

At the traditional hamam (Turkish Bath), before the wedding, the Bride's family would provide katmer, borek, and some food, and the groom's family would send kebap or tandir. When the girl displayed her hope chest, they would serve food and nuts.

At the traditional wedding, they would serve "groom's food" which was available in all big wedding ceremonies. The groom's food included;

  • Rice Soup with Egg Sauce
  • Green Beans or Potatoes with Meat
  • Rice with Meat
  • Keskek
  • Semolia Helva or rice Pudding

The week following the wedding, families would pay mutual visits. The most delicious dishes, baklava, and puff pastry being the main part of the menu, would be prepared. The menu might be;

  • Chicken Soup
  • Roasted Meat
  • Green Beans in summer, Navy Beans Stew in winter
  • Rice Pilaf or a Special Puff Pastry made with Boiled Yufka
  • Baklava

In Antalya, when somebody died neighbours and relatives brought food to the deceased person's family for three days. When the person was buried, pide and helva were prepared and distributed to those helping and to those coming to the home for condolences. On the seventh day after the death, they used to have a religious ceremony (mevlit). Turkish delight was served. On the fortieth day recitation of prayers was performed, lokma was prepared. On the fifty second day, they prayed and prepared helva.

1 Palize is a sweet dish with sugar, water and starch.
2
Helva is a sweet dish prepared with semolina, milk/water, sugar and butter.

Foods for Holy Days

In Antalya, before tha Ramadan and Kurban (sacrifice) holidays, they would prepare baklavas, puff pastries, and special holiday dishes. They would serve coffee, candies, and pastries to guests. If there were an engaged couple in the family, they would exchange presents. On the Kurban Holiday, the boy's family would send a male sheep, elaborately decorated with gold bracelets on the horns and other colorful yarn. The girl's family would return with a tray of baklava, and other presents. On the Kandils (a special day in the Arabic Lunar calendar) they would prepare pisi, on the tenth of Muharrem ( the first month in the lunar calendar), they would give their neighbours Noah's pudding. On Kadir Evening (the 27th of Ramadan), some would invite their family for a meal, some guests would bring dishes to this meal. They would worship altogether.

In Antalya there is a belief related to Mirac night. According to the information given by Semsi Postacilar, it is necessary to eat pumpkin and distribute it to neighbours. When the Prophet Muhammed ascended to heaven there was no food except pumpkin in his home. Since he ate the pumpkin and ascended, people eat pumpkin. Some prepare pumpkin dessert and give it to their neighbours. It is a good deed.

Foods for Happy Days

Hidirellez (the fortieth day after the spring equinox) on May the sixth, would be a big celebration. Before the sunrise they would go to the beach, eat, drink and go back home when the sun rose. They would prepare dolma, puff pastry and have a picnic. On that day, they would drink milk. It is a tradition to step on something green, e.g. grass.

Local Dishes Recommended for People Visiting Antalya

I recommend the following dishes to anyone visiting Antalya.

  • Jellied Trotters
  • Tripe Soup
  • Tandir Kebap (baked in an oven made in the earth)
  • Sac Kavurma (meat fried on a sac, a wok like utensil)
  • Salad Antalya Style
  • Arabian Kadaif
  • Watermelon Skin Jam
  • Bergamut Jam

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